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Hate to bump this, but just signed up for the forum because of this topic. First of all, great helmets all around! Props!

 

Secondly, I have just started getting into helmet making myself and have run into a few issues. I have had some Upperdeck decals sitting around my house for a couple of years and decided to put them to use. I bought a used Schutt Air XP, sanded it down, primed it using Rust-Oleum Flat Gray Primer, used Rust-Oleum Paint+Primer Gloss White to paint, and then sealed with a Rust-Oleum Gloss Clear.

 

The helmet itself came out pretty nicely . . . Couple issues with me using the puddy which didn't exactly sit smooth and the major issue I had was that the gloss wasn't glossy. I see the helmets posted on here are nice and shiny (CougMiniHelmet, coogrfan, etc.) but mine came out a very matte white for whatever reason. Maybe I'm not using the correct spray paint or gloss? I have another helmet coming in next week that I plan to try my hand at so I figure I'd try and learn from the best for round two.

 

Also, on the decal note, I'm mostly interested in creating a line of Marshall helmets (for now) and Marshall isn't a real popular option. Upperdeck had/has three versions of the Herd in stock, none on eBay, so I'm kind of at a dead end as far as other decals go. Marshall has some helmets of past that I'd eventually like to recreate, but wasn't sure how to go about decals. I did see coogrfan had some tips for creating smaller logos and decals.

 

Jimmy! - Love the MU helmet and Leftwich bobblehead!

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2 minutes ago, GoHerd35 said:

Hate to bump this, but just signed up for the forum because of this topic. First of all, great helmets all around! Props!

 

Secondly, I have just started getting into helmet making myself and have run into a few issues. I have had some Upperdeck decals sitting around my house for a couple of years and decided to put them to use. I bought a used Schutt Air XP, sanded it down, primed it using Rust-Oleum Flat Gray Primer, used Rust-Oleum Paint+Primer Gloss White to paint, and then sealed with a Rust-Oleum Gloss Clear.

 

The helmet itself came out pretty nicely . . . Couple issues with me using the puddy which didn't exactly sit smooth and the major issue I had was that the gloss wasn't glossy. I see the helmets posted on here are nice and shiny (CougMiniHelmet, coogrfan, etc.) but mine came out a very matte white for whatever reason. Maybe I'm not using the correct spray paint or gloss? I have another helmet coming in next week that I plan to try my hand at so I figure I'd try and learn from the best for round two.

 

Also, on the decal note, I'm mostly interested in creating a line of Marshall helmets (for now) and Marshall isn't a real popular option. Upperdeck had/has three versions of the Herd in stock, none on eBay, so I'm kind of at a dead end as far as other decals go. Marshall has some helmets of past that I'd eventually like to recreate, but wasn't sure how to go about decals. I did see coogrfan had some tips for creating smaller logos and decals.

 

Jimmy! - Love the MU helmet and Leftwich bobblehead!

When you say "puddy", what exactly are you referring to? Might be an avoidable step if you're talking about some sort of spackle-type of putty for filling in dents and dings on the shell..

Also, are you sanding prior to priming? And if so, are you rinsing very well after sanding to ensure all debris is removed?

Lastly, if you are using a relatively expensive spray paint that has a nice finish you're looking for, the clear coat might be an unnecessary step.. I've had some helmets turn out great (even had a few see some actual game action) with just the paint as the final coat.. Sometimes the clear coat is finicky enough due to its transparency that it causes you to "mist" the helmet in a manner that isn't a full coat, creating a matte/satin appearance; or its easy to overdo as well, leading to a somewhat cloudy and possibly matte-like finish.. So, if you can get your desired result without the clear, I think you can go with that honestly.. Just make sure you're using multiple, even coats..

And make sure you're following the directions on timing between types of paint.. The amount of time between coats of primer might be different than the amount of time between primer and paint.. Then the times between coats of paint might be different than between paint and clear coat.. Then the times between clear coats might be different yet again.. I recall doing some pretty extensive paint work on a team set of helmets, and one of the times was really weird - like within 10 min. or after 72 hours - something like that.. So if you missed that 10 min. opening, you had to wait 3 days.. So, make sure you're not falling into a timing trap as well..

 

Lot of common sense stuff here I know, but some of it can be easy to overlook, so I just threw it all at you just to be sure.. Also, I can double check what type of paint and clear coats I've had the most success with over the years if you like..

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On 10/27/2015 at 2:35 PM, Jungle Jim said:

I'm trying to have a Pocket Pro representation of every helmet worn in the NFL since 1960, including one-off preseason models and alternates. Many or even most have to be custom made. There have been three styles of Pocket Pros produced: two-bar, traditional, and Revolution. I've tried to create each one in the style that is appropriate for the era or eras in which it was worn, somewhat arbitrarily using the two-bar model for 1960-79, the traditional model for 1980-2002, and the Revolution style for 2003 to present.

The ones facing forward in the photos are shells for the ones I have yet to complete. The display unit is something I made using craft boards purchased at Lowes. Please overlook the poor lighting in the photos, as the lighting in the room isn't great...

IMG_4431_zpstdg6oiy0.jpg

IMG_4432_zpshxpxadkl.jpgIMG_4436_zpsuwgxdqse.jpg

 

 

where do you find the old school facemask one's?

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Many of them were custom made.  I bought complete sets of two bar helmets back when they could be had cheaply on ebay, then customized them.  I haven't checked in a long time, but last time I did, the two bar sets were hard to find and expensive when you did.  I got the feeling they weren't as popular as expected when they first released, so for a time, supply exceeded demand.  That is no longer the case.  (Note:  I am referring to the "regular" two bar sets, not the 1969 throwback editions, which have always been rare and expensive, it seems.)

 

 

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Welcome back Blazers!  Just finished up these pocket pros for my college collection.  First one is a riddell original, last 3 are customized.

IMG_1888.JPG

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On 7/13/2017 at 3:04 AM, WavePunter said:

When you say "puddy", what exactly are you referring to? Might be an avoidable step if you're talking about some sort of spackle-type of putty for filling in dents and dings on the shell..

Also, are you sanding prior to priming? And if so, are you rinsing very well after sanding to ensure all debris is removed?

Lastly, if you are using a relatively expensive spray paint that has a nice finish you're looking for, the clear coat might be an unnecessary step.. I've had some helmets turn out great (even had a few see some actual game action) with just the paint as the final coat.. Sometimes the clear coat is finicky enough due to its transparency that it causes you to "mist" the helmet in a manner that isn't a full coat, creating a matte/satin appearance; or its easy to overdo as well, leading to a somewhat cloudy and possibly matte-like finish.. So, if you can get your desired result without the clear, I think you can go with that honestly.. Just make sure you're using multiple, even coats..

And make sure you're following the directions on timing between types of paint.. The amount of time between coats of primer might be different than the amount of time between primer and paint.. Then the times between coats of paint might be different than between paint and clear coat.. Then the times between clear coats might be different yet again.. I recall doing some pretty extensive paint work on a team set of helmets, and one of the times was really weird - like within 10 min. or after 72 hours - something like that.. So if you missed that 10 min. opening, you had to wait 3 days.. So, make sure you're not falling into a timing trap as well..

 

Lot of common sense stuff here I know, but some of it can be easy to overlook, so I just threw it all at you just to be sure.. Also, I can double check what type of paint and clear coats I've had the most success with over the years if you like..

Thanks! This helps a lot.

 

The putty I'm referring to is just a Bondo Glazing/Spot Putty. I used it to help fix some scratches and dings in the shell, as I've been buying used shells. I've been sanding the helmet smooth and removing debris after sanding.

 

I think I could have very well not followed the timing steps with the primer and paint so that could have very well thrown it off. I'm going to resand, prime, and paint again making sure to follow all directions and see how it turns out. I just got a new (used) Riddell in today, but don't want to mess with it until I've got the process down pat.

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Just now, GoHerd35 said:

Thanks! This helps a lot.

The putty I'm referring to is just a Bondo Glazing/Spot Putty. I used it to help fix some scratches and dings in the shell, as I've been buying used shells. I've been sanding the helmet smooth and removing debris after sanding.

 

I think I could have very well not followed the timing steps with the primer and paint so that could have very well thrown it off. I'm going to resand, prime, and paint again making sure to follow all directions and see how it turns out. I just got a new (used) Riddell in today, but don't want to mess with it until I've got the process down pat.

I typically use variations of rustoleum, usually American accents or metallics.. If you want a glossy look, make sure to buy the glossy paint, because with a few solid coats, you may have decent durability and a glossy look without needing a clear coat at all..

 

A second or third coat of primer can go a long way in helping hide those dents and dings on used helmets, so if they're not bad, it may be better than the Bondo putty.. Also, if it's for glazing, it could actually be working against the paint adhesion.. Certain types of glosses/glazes/clear coats actually keep the paint and/or primer from sticking.. Obviously Bondo is one that shouldn't, but just a heads-up..

 

As for debris clean-up after sanding, I highly recommend a very good, thorough rinse, and let completely dry (or dry yourself with clean towel and blow dryer).. Simply wiping doesn't always work, and I've had to learn that the hard way..

 

Back to the timing thing, I think this is a good place to focus your efforts if you haven't been previously.. There's usually a short-lived window immediately following a coat, then it's a day or longer of dead time, then the window opens again, so definitely check those out, because you could be inadvertently sabotaging yourself, thinking you're being patient with a 24-hour cure time or something along those lines.. I've had good luck trying to catch the back end of the early/short window with my recoats.. Trying to catch the paint while it's still tacky enough to really accept the next coat, but dry enough that the spray doesn't cause pits or dimples.. 

If you go this route, you can be a little lighter with your first coat, because it will essentially just be there to give the 2nd coat something to stick to.. The first coat can sometimes run on plastic or a fully dried/cured coat, but you get a little bit more leeway with a nice full coat going onto a tacky/nearly dry previous coat..

 

Hope this helps! I can't wait to see some of your work!

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On 5/9/2017 at 0:35 AM, Jungle Jim said:

Well, since this topic has been revived, I've decided to go ahead and re-post photos of my Pocket Pro collection since I completed it last fall.

 

As I mentioned in my original post (and yes, I'm repeating myself), I now have a representation of every helmet worn in the NFL since 1960, including one-off preseason models and alternates. Many or even most had to be custom made. Up until last year, there had been three styles of Pocket Pros produced: two-bar, traditional, and Revolution. I tried to create each one in the style that is appropriate for the era or eras in which it was worn, somewhat arbitrarily using the two-bar model for 1960-79, the traditional model for 1980-2002, and the Revolution style for 2003 to present.  The display unit is something I made using craft boards purchased at Lowes. 

 

Last year Riddell introduced the "Speed" model of Pocket Pro, replacing the Revolution that had been marketed for several years.  I managed to complete the 2016 updates using Revolution shells, but I haven't decided if or when I'll start using the Speed model.  Another decision will be whether or not to buy all 32 teams' current designs in the Speed model.  

 

Here's a comparison of the Revolution and the Speed, for those unfamiliar:

 

s-l225.jpgs-l225.jpg

 

I'd like to have been able to display them in order by city name, but that wasn't 100% possible if I were to keep each team all on one shelf and not split them up.  When I get time, I'll to try to shift the Chargers upward, since they're now from Los Angeles rather than San Diego.

 

The most challenging ones to create ended up being the 1994 Eagles 75th Anniversary throwback and the yellow and baby blue 2007 Eagles throwback.  Also, I re-did the Buccaneers flags to make them the correct size.  The ones produced by Riddell had flags that were too small.

 

My only regret at this point is my failure to document the actual seasons each helmet was worn, as I was doing my research.  I can still go back to the Gridiron Database and do it, but I could have had it done the first time.

 

IMG_9797.JPG

IMG_9798.JPG

IMG_9802.JPG

IMG_9799.JPG

IMG_9803.JPG

I hate to be "that guy", but if those two chiefs helmets you posted are yours, they're inaccurate..

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7 hours ago, WavePunter said:

I hate to be "that guy", but if those two chiefs helmets you posted are yours, they're inaccurate..

 

Those helmets of the two Chiefs helmets are stock images of Riddell pocket pros.  They aren't custom.

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3 hours ago, WSU151 said:

 

Those helmets of the two Chiefs helmets are stock images of Riddell pocket pros.  They aren't custom.

That's good.. But assuming he used stock Riddell pocket pros in his collection, the point still stands

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18 minutes ago, WavePunter said:

That's good.. But assuming he used stock Riddell pocket pros in his collection, the point still stands

 

I'm okay with giving pocket pros a margin of error, especially if it's for "the tip of the arrowhead is wrong"

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39 minutes ago, WSU151 said:

 

I'm okay with giving pocket pros a margin of error, especially if it's for "the tip of the arrowhead is wrong"

And the "C"

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12 minutes ago, WavePunter said:

And the "C"

 

Remind me how it's different?

 

Chiefs-Helmet.jpg?w=640

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2 hours ago, WSU151 said:

 

Remind me how it's different?

 

Chiefs-Helmet.jpg?w=640

The top left photo is the official team logo (which is the one featured on the Riddell Pocket Pro helmets pictured previously in this thread).. Top right photo is official helmet logo from an official style guide (note how the bottom tail of the "C" terminates differently.. Also note how it matches the one in the photo you provided).. Bottom left photo is the one you provided.. Bottom right photo is opposite side of official game helmet to show that the "C" is consistent in shape on official helmets, regardless of side..

 

 

Uni-Watch ran an article on the issue as well..

http://www.uni-watch.com/2014/02/24/serious-logo-inconsistencies-for-the-kansas-city-chiefs/

IMG_0690.JPG

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1 minute ago, WavePunter said:

The top left photo is the official team logo (which is the one featured on the Riddell Pocket Pro helmets pictured previously in this thread).. Top right photo is official helmet logo from an official style guide (note how the bottom tail of the "C" terminates differently.. Also note how it matches the one in the photo you provided).. Bottom left photo is the one you provided.. Bottom right photo is opposite side of official game helmet to show that the "C" is consistent in shape on official helmets, regardless of side..

 

 

Uni-Watch ran an article on the issue as well..

http://www.uni-watch.com/2014/02/24/serious-logo-inconsistencies-for-the-kansas-city-chiefs/

IMG_0690.JPG

 

Holy crap.  Thanks for posting that, as I didn't know about the angle of the bottom tail.  However, in that official guide pic, the right-bottom of the K overlaps the C more than the decals on the helmets show.

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5 hours ago, WSU151 said:

 

Holy crap.  Thanks for posting that, as I didn't know about the angle of the bottom tail.  However, in that official guide pic, the right-bottom of the K overlaps the C more than the decals on the helmets show.

The style guide is admittedly quite old, but again, additional differences further support the original claim that using the team's official primary mark on the helmet is inaccurate..

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On 7/15/2017 at 0:10 AM, WavePunter said:

I typically use variations of rustoleum, usually American accents or metallics.. If you want a glossy look, make sure to buy the glossy paint, because with a few solid coats, you may have decent durability and a glossy look without needing a clear coat at all..

 

A second or third coat of primer can go a long way in helping hide those dents and dings on used helmets, so if they're not bad, it may be better than the Bondo putty.. Also, if it's for glazing, it could actually be working against the paint adhesion.. Certain types of glosses/glazes/clear coats actually keep the paint and/or primer from sticking.. Obviously Bondo is one that shouldn't, but just a heads-up..

 

As for debris clean-up after sanding, I highly recommend a very good, thorough rinse, and let completely dry (or dry yourself with clean towel and blow dryer).. Simply wiping doesn't always work, and I've had to learn that the hard way..

 

Back to the timing thing, I think this is a good place to focus your efforts if you haven't been previously.. There's usually a short-lived window immediately following a coat, then it's a day or longer of dead time, then the window opens again, so definitely check those out, because you could be inadvertently sabotaging yourself, thinking you're being patient with a 24-hour cure time or something along those lines.. I've had good luck trying to catch the back end of the early/short window with my recoats.. Trying to catch the paint while it's still tacky enough to really accept the next coat, but dry enough that the spray doesn't cause pits or dimples.. 

If you go this route, you can be a little lighter with your first coat, because it will essentially just be there to give the 2nd coat something to stick to.. The first coat can sometimes run on plastic or a fully dried/cured coat, but you get a little bit more leeway with a nice full coat going onto a tacky/nearly dry previous coat..

 

Hope this helps! I can't wait to see some of your work!

 

Just got a Riddell in today that has been beat to hell and back. I'll post some pictures up before I start working on it maybe next week to see what you think and if I should go Bondo for this one or not.

 

Anyways, back to my Schutt that I'm trying to perfect. $20 at Play It Again Sports so I'll keep working on it until I'm satisfied with it. I looked at my Rustoleum primer can and followed the "apply 2 or more light coats a few minutes apart". I put on three light coats and now I'm going to let it sit for the "apply a second coat or clear coat within one hour or after forty eight hours." I'll take a look at it then, if happy will sand it lightly, and then hit it with my white gloss Rustoleum which gives me similar directions to hit it with a couple light coats within minutes of each other and then do more coats either within an hour of that or after forty eight.

 

*fingers crossed*

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5 minutes ago, GoHerd35 said:

 

Just got a Riddell in today that has been beat to hell and back. I'll post some pictures up before I start working on it maybe next week to see what you think and if I should go Bondo for this one or not.

 

Anyways, back to my Schutt that I'm trying to perfect. $20 at Play It Again Sports so I'll keep working on it until I'm satisfied with it. I looked at my Rustoleum primer can and followed the "apply 2 or more light coats a few minutes apart". I put on three light coats and now I'm going to let it sit for the "apply a second coat or clear coat within one hour or after forty eight hours." I'll take a look at it then, if happy will sand it lightly, and then hit it with my white gloss Rustoleum which gives me similar directions to hit it with a couple light coats within minutes of each other and then do more coats either within an hour of that or after forty eight.

 

*fingers crossed*

Sounds like a good plan.. If you're really happy with your primer results, I wouldn't sand before the first paint coat.. Imo, it just adds to the possibility of various issues for a number of reasons.. Primer should accept the paint really well, so if the primer looks good, save yourself some time and some risk by going straight to paint.. Best of luck!

 

Also, I'm mocking up a throwback for an alumnus this week.. I'll post some photos as well.

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4 hours ago, WavePunter said:

The style guide is admittedly quite old, but again, additional differences further support the original claim that using the team's official primary mark on the helmet is inaccurate..

 

The two two-bar Chiefs helmets in my collection are customs, using the logo from this site, which also incorrectly uses it on the helmets...

 

http://www.sportslogos.net/logos/list_by_team/162/Kansas_City_Chiefs/

 

Although now revealed as incorrect, it's not significant enough that I'll concern myself with it.  If nothing else, it keeps them consistent with the factory ones.

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